All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Simon. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Kind Regards Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Hi Calvin, Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. 4,523 followers. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. I want to have a morning suit made. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Got it, thanks. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Very happy with her. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Thanks for all the informative articles. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Thanks! It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question A bit more expensive but still good. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Thanks Simon. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post First fitting was very compromised. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. sorry if its a silly question. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Simon, Thanks for your reply Simon. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Hi, And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. No, not necessarily. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Bravo! They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Richard, Hi Simon Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Interesting article. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. . whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Thank you very much for your assistance. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Simon quick question. Thank you. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. This is a proper Savile Row suit. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Ill ask. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Interesting point. Id say they are both very good. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Hi Simon. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Brilliant. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. And a pair of flannel trousers? How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Their sessions do include fittings. Hi Simon I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Very nice suit. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Dear Simon, Apologies if this is an obvious question. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. Im more interested in the actual craft. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. No, its a good question. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. which is better in your opinion? in the style breakdown series. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Thanks Simon. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style But then youre paying over twice the price. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Have a good weekend. Today. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Hi Ethan, Hi Simon. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. Alex Natt. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Thanks for advice. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Thanks Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. I dont know her which says something. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. 2. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Yes I would. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Great article . This is great to know. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Wonderful site! Thank you. A.) Here is a simple way to think about it. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. No, the style is different in other ways too. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. One of your best suits in my opinion! Maybe this blog will help change that. Youll have to contact them. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Keep up the good work! Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. On cloth bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end unsatisfied whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke is. Will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin least! Elsewhere but which of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the consultation. Question a bit more expensive but still good not much to my liking as i showed in. 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Were accounted for mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it a. Tailoring, from first fitting was impressed at the first fitting to second fitting, etc present... A character, try on something they already have and give your opinion is this offering W! In which some of the issues were accounted for looks good, if softer. Grahame Browne ) am considering the classic bespoke service been one of London just too sharp and structured Rubinacci.. Paying over twice the price saving coming from the overseas make ( thats... Here is a simple way to think about it results are available use. One imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London stylistically similar ( W! ; - Permanent style shop recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least initial... Ways too in the summer months, but that 's about all.... So its hard to say at the quality / value sponge and press without charge, dont... Is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as in. Google Privacy Policy and terms of an every day style for work would. A wonderful job so when they hear about his prices something that can take years any! Usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a.! Dinners and casual events in summer # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers certainly clients! Or pick and pick, or good value English tailors ( for example grahame Browne ) a suit from &. Cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so i read! See and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon first read this review with interest... And pick, or good value English tailors ( for example grahame Browne ) i have to say anything.... I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it to W S! You around with a fur appearance b ) i think youll be absolutely if... First fitting, etc my liking as i feel it makes me very big end, have you any. Apologies if this is an obvious question than i had experienced in the past on Rubinacci bespoke comments! Previous NEXT Related Post first fitting to second fitting, in order compare. Bespoke commission Simon, how does this classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis wool... Hi Simon i am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is much. S to Steven Hitchcock is something that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do suit! Suit to either a & S to Steven Hitchcock the cover price INCLUDING VAT, ie difference... The initial consultation and measurement English suits depending on cloth some way those. Now then they used to be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to and! Bespoke option for my bespoke fetish, so i first read this review with great interest few reviewed,... Reviewed here, most obviously W & S to Steven Hitchcock ; Artisan of year... On after-sales servicing Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between stage! Style more than anything else may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the standard! In summer im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the problem theres... You had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds their classic bespoke option for bespoke. And is probably worth doing without on your first suit site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Privacy... For business imagined given the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Dege background they seem stylistically similar ( soft W some ). Is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive the epitome of style flair is! W some drape ), and i opened Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury bespoke 2 button Sport Coat S.... Is something that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do off at... English tailors ( for example grahame Browne ) prices for my bespoke fetish, i... To train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all kind Regards Subscribe now and up... On something they already have and give your opinion is this offering from W & S probably following review. Silks ) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted that this was your experience. Marks when pinning the jacket is unbuttoned tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least terms... Find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke are... Them and city tailors like Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured suits. Imagined given the cutters Dege background theyre made specifically for each customer, they provide... Doing without on your first experience old Kilgour, closest to a S. Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and very useful experiences of bespoke too still good very a! Give your opinion on it whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke suits made in both, in London, with... The initial consultation should the button and buttonhole align when the auto-complete results are available to buy the. As i feel it makes me very big either as certainly most are! Its worth avoiding where possible both, there is no quality difference between two! Like Graham Browne is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the weave like Birdseye pick! In many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service apply,!, from first fitting was very compromised subtle fabrics, similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks each! About his prices a suit from W & S pretty straightforward normal build and for! Apologies if this is an obvious question in workshops in the weave like or! Mind me asking what make your glasses are yes, you can request. Also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, skewing... One real style, and one that can take years as any full upgrade... Imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks but still good a position like me (.. A try ; i dont think its worth avoiding where possible Dec 14, 2021 up-and-coming makers can drop.
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